Monthly Archives: October 2010

Walt Disney World in HDR
PhotoGraphy

Walt Disney World in HDR

With the advent of more powerful personal computers, digital cameras and imaging software, photographers and software engineers created the HDR process of merging a set of digital photographs which would have taken hours of setup in a darkroom and do it in just a few minutes. Today’s blog is just an introduction to HDR as I have recently discovered it myself.

There are two kinds of HDR images. One is created by a set of images I call an HDR set. The second is created from one image which I will cover in three weeks. So, what is an HDR set? To explain that I first have to introduce you to the term bracketing. In photography, bracketing means to take one picture at a given exposure then one or two brighter and one or two darker, in order to obtain the best image. I did this often whenever I was using slide film. Digital sensors are a lot like slide film so when I took up digital photography, I returned to bracketing, especially if the the subject I was photographing had very light and dark areas.

HDR imaging takes bracketing a bit further. Instead of changing a half or a full stop around an exposure, HDR photographers go 2, 3 and sometimes more stops. Digital cameras make it very easy as most come with auto-bracketing settings which will program your camera to take a series of photos plus and minus around the exposure the photographer decides to start with. Auto-bracketing can be truly automatic where one shutter press takes all the photos in sequence or, like my older digital camera, you have to press the shutter for each bracketed photo. To find out how your camera does auto-bracketing, check its manual (haven’t bugged you about reading that in awhile!).

HDR Tutorial: How to create ‘High Dynamic Range’ images using Photomatix
General

HDR Tutorial: How to create ‘High Dynamic Range’ images using Photomatix

HDR Photography Guide Book

Its finally out. The book based on this guide is available to buy. Why buy it when this guide is free? Well firstly because this guide is nearly 3 years old. Secondly because this guide is around 3,000 words and the enhanced version in the book is 10,000. So its more indepth. Thirdly because the guide in the book is only 1 of 10 chapters. The book has 304 pages of HDR goodness. Lots to read. Landscapes, how to do black and white, panoramas, cross processing, toning, people, moving subjects. Its got it all. You can buy itfrom Amazon US and Amazon UK. Enjoy.

If you want to know how to take photos such as these, then read on.

100 photoshop lessons from Iuldashev
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100 photoshop lessons from Iuldashev

წიგნთა ეს სერია ეძღვნება დღეისთვის ერთ-ერთ ყველაზე პოპულარულ გრაფიკულ პროგრამას Adobe Photoshop CS2. თითოეული ნაწილი დაფუძნებულია პროგრამის ერთ გარკვეულ თემაზე (ფოტო-ეფექტები, ტექსტის ეფექტები, ვებ-დიზაინი და ა.შ.) და მასში მოცემულია 100 გაკვეთილი. თითოეული გაკვეთილი დაყოფილია პუნქტებად, ყოველი პუნქტი ახსნილია დაწვრილებით და ყველასთვის გასაგებ ენაზე, იქნება ეს დამწყები თუ პროფესიონალი დიზაინერი. წიგნის მიზანია გააცნოს მკითხველს შეძლებისდაგვარად Photoshop-ის ყველანაირი შესაძლებლობა და გახადოს ისინი უფრო იოლად გასაგები და მოსახმარი. ზოგიერთი გაკვეთილი აღებულია და დამუშავებულია სხვადასხვა საიტიდან, ზოგი კი ჩემს მიერაა დაწერილი.
მოცემული ნაწილი ეძღვნება ფოტო-ეფექტებს. მოყვანილია სხვადასხვა საინტერესო და ორიგინალური გაკვეთილი, იქნება ეს ფოტოების შენიღბვა თუ თოვლის ეფექტი, ნაოჭების მოშორება თუ ადამიანი-ზომბი. აქ მოყვანილი ფოტო-ეფექტებით თქვენ შეძლებთ გაალამაზოთ თქვენი და თქვენი ახლობლების მიერ გადაღებული ფოტოები და არა მარტო ისინი. მთავარია ფანტაზია და მონდომება.
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ნებისმიერ საკითხთან დაკავშირებით შეგიძლიათ გამომეხმაუროთ შემდეგ მისამართებზე:

E-Mail: kote7777@gmail.com
Yahoo Messenger: kiuldashevi
MSN Messenger: kote7777@gmail.com

გისურვებთ საინტერესო მოგზაურობას Adobe Photoshop-ის ფანტასტიურ სამყაროში!
პატივისცემით, კოტე იულდაშევი

Photoshop Selections: The Magic Wand Tool
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Photoshop Selections: The Magic Wand Tool

The Magic Wand Tool

The Tolerance option tells Photoshop how different in tone and color a pixel can be from the area we clicked on for it to be included in the selection. By default, the Tolerance value is set to 32, which means that Photoshop will select any pixels that are the same color as the area we clicked on, plus any pixels that are up to 32 shades darker or 32 shades brighter. In the case of my gradient, which contains a total of 256 brightness levels between (and including) pure black and pure white, Photoshop selected the entire range of pixels that fell between 32 shades darker and 32 shades brighter than the shade of gray I initially clicked on.

HDR Tutorial Guide Thing for Photomatix
General

HDR Tutorial Guide Thing for Photomatix

The problem: Dynamic Range

If you go to the beach at sunset and see a brilliant sunset what do you see? You clearly see the detail in the sand, in the sky and can enjoy the sunset. You’ll have no problems spotting friends or finding your car. You’ll never hearing someone ranting that there’s too many silhouettes and that its hard to see. However, if you try and take a photo on your camera it will fill the scene with silhouettes. Depending on the metering mode of your camera, it will probably meter for the brightest object in the scene, the sun. Everything else will be under-exposed. The majority of people will be happy with this because it darkens the clouds and creates an aesthetically pleasing scene. The problem is that you aren’t capturing the scene as you remember it. You are capturing it as aesthetically pleasing as possible with the limitations of your cameras dynamic range. This means that you lose an incredible amount of detail in the shadows. This is why you get silhouettes. The shadows / blacks are massively clipped. You can work around this with a ND graduated filter but they are a block that you cannot alter. For a sunset at a beach it maybe fine, but for a cityscape you will find its too harsh resulting in dark patches on the tops of buildings. Basically you can get a nice photo, but its not as you remember it.